They say that the sections between Beaumaris and Cemaes (71 km) are the most pretty ones of the whole circle (200km) around the island. I am not sure, i definitely will do the other 2/3 as well when I am back here with Paul, then I can tell you. But without doubt: it is stunning, striking and captivating…(used synonym for gorgious, thanks google)
My third day started with a sun behind the clouds…okáyyyyy…thats different….but still nice. I packed my tent immediatly after my coffee, before the morning hikers would start to pass. It was pretty close after Moelfre where I slept, and some locals with dogs or trailrunners had passed during the evening before. The silence….with the screaming seagulls as constant backgroundvocals, is healing, even without sun. I hike on till a nice spot for my breakfast, a bay, some pebbles, colorful seaweed….and the staring can start again…with the rythm of the waves.
There is more wind today, it blows in my left ear all the time. Different landscape, more hills, heather in different colors of purple….lots of waving grass, I love grasses, this gold soft rythmic movement it makes in the breeze. The small path overgrown with stinging nettles and raspberries, both not nice for my bare legs, are a proof of the remoteness. Not many have been walking here lately. It is a day in “silence”…. I have a little chat with a bull, maybe some mumbling to the heather how beautiful they are, but thats it. No village, no people, only Coastal Path. I better collect some water already, i do not want to be forced over 20 kms again.
It starts to rain, not very very hard, more a drizzle. Waterproofs on, no problem. Not one moment I ever thought to walk in Wales without rain, you wíll get it. Walking in the rain is different, you move from going outside to inside (naar binnen gericht, beetje meer blik op oneindig en doorstappen). Ik voel de 21,5 km van gisteren in mijn voetzolen. Die nieuwe zooltjes van de podotherapeut om de hielbelasting te verlichten zorgen voor een beurs gevoel in de holte van je voet. Daar zit nu die tennisbal en geeft een behoorlijke druk, alsof je op blauwe plekken loopt. Dat soort dingen gaan meer opvallen als het regent. Na 17 km stop ik, het is droog…oh shit ik ben ongemerkt in het Nederlands overgegaan…weer ff terug)….it took me a while to find a bit sheltered spot for the night, i definitely do not want to be too close to a cliff now, it feels like it cóuld go storming tonoght. I use all my 8 pegs to secure the tent. My Hubbahubba 2p (tjingtjing💵💵) is perfect, loads of space on your own. Tbe noises of the wind and rain give me a cosy feeling inside. When its dry I go for a little walk with my camera…. Very comfortable without a backpack. It is getting pretty hard to get up from groundposition (gehurkt) with this 20kg on your back after you kneeled for a picture. This is exactly what you should train beforehands, squating and lunches🏋️♀️. I promiss myself to do that perfectly well for my next backpacktrip, honestly 🙏🏻!
It is only 5pm, me, myself and I in my tent in the rain, reading till one side gets numb, turn around, till numbness there, then upside down, turn around, on your back, on your belly. Many positions in which you can still read your Kindle (💵💵), much better than a paper book, but nevertheless there will be a moment that no position fits anymore, its done. I make myself a dinner, a nighttea, do another wet little backpackless hike and bedtime.
I wake up before 5am. My back does not want to lay down any longer then 8 hours. I go out my tent for a pee and holy shit…what is that…a sunrise. Totally unexpected, by surprise…the clouds open for a bit and nature gives me this spectacle. I quickly make a coffee and the pink party can begin. I am so happy!! I always miss all spectaculair things, i am always too late, or the weather is against me…or the animals do not show up. But now, without waiting, planning or expecting….there it was, a most beautiful sunrise! What a start for day four.